Six o’clock in the morning, the alarm is ringing a bit earlier than usual – as of a sudden I’m out of bed strongly motivated by the journey ahead. The same must have happened to my partner who arrived to our wheeled place fifteen minutes earlier than what had been agreed the previous day. By such fact and his face, I was led to think and asked if he had rested properly or if we shared the same stormy sleep! With a childish smile and positive answer he came in…
While we were having coffee, observing the first lights touching the summits of Pizzi del Ferro (3199m), we started a conversation on snow climbs. Stefano humbly told me that he is a regular ski mountaineer, had been on the summit of Cho Oyu without oxygen but had lately devoted himself to rock climbing more than anything. Summed up with accounts of his free solo activities in Val di Mello, I felt confidence in our team while striding the long mountain path that leaves from Bagni di Masino to the bottom of Cima Scingino and from there on sharing the twelve pitches of Delta Minox (460m, 7b+).
In one of the attempts to find company for the bigger walls of Val di Mello, I was introduced to Stefano Dotti by Andrea Migliano - my rope mate from Lavorare con Lentezza. According to him, “Bimbo” also intended to try the 1988 chef d'oeuvre of Tarcisio Fazzini, Livio Gianola, Sabina Gianola, and Norberto Riva. My initial reading in one of the guidebooks informed that it is a contender for the more exposed multi-pitch slab climb in the Alps; the hardest of the central region. The web showed an interesting Italian account of a previous rope solo ascent, and I already knew the respect that the name of the route evoked to locals. From then on, and till the moment we started climbing, it seemed as if any variable could serve as an excuse not to go and discover by ourselves what the difficulties were.
When on the 5th of June 10am we started the first pitch of the amazing pillar, we were still seeing wet patches ahead of us that the last few days of heavy rain had left and a chilly wind was now drying. As we progressed, words and thoughts vanished, leaving space for real not wanted falls, as well as a succession of precise and precarious moves and gear placements. Eventually, a strongly forbidden Porco Dio! My clearest memories of this ecstatic day will always be the many moments of high focus, the belay views over the beautifully sculpted granite and surrounding alpine environment, the abseils from the summit with a cold purple dusk; the silent walk back to the valley and the warm late evening reception from Simone Pedeferri at Bar de la Monica.
